This part of the diving world is globally renowned as a place to see plenty of sharks, especially now in July when the currents run hard in the depths and up into the reef dive sites that we visit. They bring with them a host of marine life from the smallest to the midsized predators, followed all the way up to the apex, Oceanic White Tips, Black Tips, Silkies and the subject of today’s descent – Hammerheads. With fingers (and fins) crossed we level off 30 metres down in the middle of the ocean and we wait.
And we wait.
A Thresher Shark, its long whipped tail a unique and faint silhouette in the murky depths below cruises past. Incredible, but not what we are here for.
We keep waiting. Anxiously looking at our rapidly depleting air supplies. Still nothing. Just an endless view of the surrounding blue.
Then, all of a sudden they appear.
From the edge of visibility below us they drift up from the deep. Curious, sinuous, agile and totally unmistakable. This is something very rare, very special, this is a surprisingly big group of Hammerhead Sharks – around forty in number. The largest move in towards us first, dorsal fins angled slightly towards us in a communication style that is obvious to read… you just stay there, we are in charge here and this is on our terms. We happily accept the rules, staying in a tight group, no sudden movements.
We stay and we watch.